Maintenance
Maintenance
Proper Scooter maintenance is
crucial to getting the most out of your scooter. You should always
consult your owner manual as certain things such as fuel mixture or
tire pressure may vary from scooter to scooter. If the information
presented here contradicts your owner manual, then you should trust
the manufacture and abide by their specs.
Furthermore we remind scooter enthusiasts that although our gas
scooters are toys, they can be dangerous if not respected. Please
follow safe riding practices and ALWAYS wear protective gear.
Before operating your electric scooter:
• Make sure the tires are inflated properly. Small tires loose air
pressure quickly and must be aired frequently. Most small tires can
accept air pressure to 85 psi. This allows the tire to properly
contact the surface and keeps the tube from rotating inside the tire
during braking and acceleration. If the tube rotates, the valve stem
will possibly be cut or torn from the inner tube. This will require
replacement of the inner tube.
• Charge the battery. Batteries should be charged frequently,
especially after prolonged usage that runs the battery down. Allow
the batteries to cool for an hour or more before charging. Heat will
damage batteries and it is helpful to keep batteries as cool as
possible during use or charging.
• Keep the right tension on your drive belt (or chain) during use. A
loose drive belt will allow the teeth to slip and wear at an
excessive rate. Failure of the belt will occur due to slippage or
the heat generated due to improper tension. The belt can be adjusted
by moving the rear tire forward or aft. Check your specification,
but look for approximately one-half to one-quarter inch gap when
pressing against the middle of the span. It is important to prevent
slippage.
• Do not ride electric scooters through water or mud, or even on wet
grass since water can cause failure of the electrical components!
Electric scooters are meant to be ridden on dry hard surfaces.
The following subjects
are addressed in Maintenance
Fuel and oil Mixture:
Your scooter usually uses a 2-stroke engine for power. A 2-stroke
engine was chosen for it's excellent power to weight ratio. A
2-stroke engine does not require that you ever change the oil,
however it does require that you mix a quality grade 2-stroke oil
with the gasoline prior to filling your scooters gas tank. This
ensures that your engine will remain lubricated and give you
reliable service.
To accomplish this you can buy 2-stroke oil at almost any auto parts
store or hardware store. The oil and gas are the mixed together in a
separate container before filling the scooter. The mixture should be
done at a 25:1 ratio (See ratio chart below). Mixing the gas and oil
too lean can cause the engine to run too hot resulting in permanent
engine damage. Mixing the gas and oil too rich will cause decreased
performance and result in a fouled Spark Plug. By strictly following
the 25:1 ratio you can be assured maximum performance from your
scooter.
|
Gallons of Gas |
Ounces of 2 stroke oil |
|
1 |
5 |
|
2 |
10 1/4 |
|
3 |
15 1/2 |
|
4 |
20 1/2 |
|
5 |
25 1/2 |
Spark
Plug:
The spark plug is a crucial and vulnerable part on your 2-stroke
engine. Your spark plug can be located on the top of the engine
under the protective rubber boot. Your scooter comes with a tool kit
containing a spark plug wrench for easy removal.
The spark plug must be clean, and must be replaced promptly when
signs of wear begin to show. The condition of the spark plug can
tell you a lot about how your motor is running. If the electrode is
white, that can be a sign that your scooter is running too hot. This
can be a result of either running too lean, or that the fuel and oil
mixture is too lean. If you are running your scooter to rich then
your spark plug may be black, covered with gas, oil, or carbon.
Another common problem is that the spark plug gets clogged up with
carbon and/or oil and "fouls". This should be checked by assuring
the electrode has a clean gap of .023 in.
Air Filter:
The air filter is used to clean the air going into the engine.
Periodic cleaning of this filter is recommended to protect your gas
scooter engine against the damaging effects of dirt and abrasive
particulates. Your air filter can be located on the front of the
engine and the protective cover can be removed with one screw. When
the protective cover is removed the air filter is revealed. You can
also see the small workings of the choke and butterfly valve. The
filter should be free from dirt and grease and appear clean like the
one shown on the right. If there are contaminants on the filter it
can be cleaned in a container of gasoline. Allow the filter to dry
before re-installing it into your gas scooter.
Chain:
The chain on your scooter should be lubricated before every ride.
The chain should also be checked for tightness on a regular basis.
If the chain is too loose a popping sound can be heard and the
scooter will jerk under acceleration, or the chain will just jump
off altogether.. If the chain is too tight it will be noisy and
bind, this can be felt by pushing the scooter with the motor off.
Throttle:
There are two main types of scooter throttles. One is a twist type,
and the other is a hand throttle. Although the throttles are
different in operation, they are essentially mechanically the same.
When the rider applies the throttle, a cable carries this motion
down to the engine. For continued smooth operation it is important
to keep this cable clean and free of obstructions. Should the
throttle begin to feel loose and sloppy, the slack can be adjusted
on the cable at the handlebars. Simply loosen the lock nut and
adjust the cable tension via the adjustment screw. Once the desired
tension is achieved retighten the lock nut.
Brakes:
The brake on your gas scooter is a cable actuated drum brake. This
style brake has proven well over time and is very simple to
maintain. The rear brake has two main adjustments. The easiest of
the two is the adjustment on the handbrake itself. This adjustment
has two simple steps. To change the tension on the cable merely back
off the locking nut and screw the adjustment screw in or out
accordingly. Once the desired tension is achieved re-tighten the
locking nut. Further adjustment can be made at the brake drum
itself. This task is easiest with two people. First, loosen the
adjustment at the handlebar hand brake and screw it all the way in.
Next go to the rear brake and loosen the Cable Clamp. Once loose,
pull back on the cable and have the second person push forward on
the Brake Cable Lever (push hard, you are pushing against a tight
spring action). While pushing the lever forward and pulling the
cable back, quickly tighten the cable clamp. Additional minor
adjustments can be made where the cable meets the rear brake.
Carburetor:
The carburetor has many adjustments on it and it is recommended that
these adjustments to be made by experienced persons only, however we
will point out the major points. The carburetor is responsible for
pumping the fuel and mixing it with the air at a precise
measurement. The carburetor does this with very small diaphragms,
orifices and ports, which are easily clogged by contaminants. This
is why is extremely important that you use only clean new fuel in
your gas scooter.
Primer:
When the scooter is brand new, been run out of gas, been sitting for
a long period or is very cold, it may be necessary to prime the
carburetor before attempting to start it. This is accomplished with
the primer pump bowl located at the bottom of the carburetor. Simply
press and release this pump several times until gas can be seen
flowing through the clear gas return line to the fuel tank. This
will help start the scooter under the aforementioned conditions,
however if this is done once the scooter has warmed up it may induce
flooding.
Idle:
If the scooter will not idle or idles too fast, an adjustment screw
is provided next to the choke. Turning this screw clockwise will
increase the idle speed. Turning the screw counterclockwise will
decrease the idle speed. Remember that an idle speed that is too
fast can be dangerous.
Possible Problems and
suggested solutions
Power system will not charge
In this situation we will assume
that the battery has been charged or allowed to stand for several
hours (a battery will normally self-charge up to a point and make
the scooter power up for a fair distance). There are generally two
main suspects:
1) First suspect a loose or broken connection. Take the top or deck
off to see the wiring and inspect it for any loose or broken
connections on the battery, switch, controller, etc.
2) Second suspect the controller
box has failed. Since the controller is the heart of the system it
can fail in many ways to prevent current from being supplied to the
motor.
3) Other less likely suspects can
be:
• A battery that is completely open, supplying no current and
possible even testing as having no voltage. It can be very briefly
shorted with a wire to see if an arc is produced, revealing current
is present. See Below for more advises on batteries.
• It is also possible to have a bad brake lever or throttle since
both have wiring and switches or variable controls. The brake lever
has a power cut-off switch. The throttle variably controls the speed
of the scooter.
• The scooter On/Off switch can be defective. Without a good switch
the scooter has no power, but the test of this is the power light.
Does the power light come on when the switch is activated to the ON
position?
After fully charging, powers only for short distance use.
Suspect the battery charger or the
battery as the primary cause of short distance riding after a
lengthy or full charge. If your battery charger does not have
charging indicator lights then you may not be charging the battery
at all if the charger is defective.
The battery may be self-charging
to only about 60% on it's own. If the battery is getting old then it
may not be able to hold a full charge and the battery will need
replacement. When suspected you can very briefly arc across the
battery terminals with an insulated wire to see if it produces a
nice arc. It is also possible to test some individual battery 12volt
cells using 12volt motors or lights that will show you the available
current capability. Is the 12volt light dim on a charged battery?
Does the 12volt motor run slowly when connected to the cell? Similar
type tests can be performed using a 24volt battery cell, too.
WARNING! Batteries contain acid that can explode, or the vapors
ignite from an arc. Batteries produce current and voltage that can
burn you when a shorted circuit occurs. Be absolutely sure you know
what you are doing before trying any tests to eliminate a component
from consideration of being defective!!!
You can take the
battery to a shop capable of testing the battery under a loaded
condition. Fully charge the battery and carefully remove it. Let a
technician determine the condition of the battery for you. A high
quality Battery charge helps to prevent over charging the battery
and increase the life expectancy of your battery.
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